325i problems

[airman1733]

I'm trying to fix a 1994 325i. When I got to it, the person that was last hired was there to do a headgasket, tore the car apart and took off. I picked up on that..doing the headgasket but upon finishing it, there was still a leak- just not from the gasket.

The whole head was professionally rebuilt- the valves were bent because the owner didn't want to have the head properly checked out before putting it on. I got the head back, got the car running, but it sounded like an electric motor- timing was off.

I fixed the timing, then it wouldn't start.

The key that holds the harmonic balancer to the crank was missing, I got that off the old engine and then the car started, but it chugged and ran white smoke til it ran out of gas. At this point, I assumed the headgasket was bad because he refused to replace it after the head was rebuilt.

We got a new headgasket yesterday. I put the headgasket on, put gas in the car, and now it runs..but there seems to be oil spraying from somewhere on to the exhaust and it's creating the blue smoke both under the hood and out of the tailpipe.

I killed the car, went to start it again later and now it won't start again.

I have put more time into this car than into any other- I need help.

The following have been done;
New and then rebuilt head, head gasket, exhaust and intake gaskets, new oil, new coolant, new longblock, and probably things I'm just so frustrated I can't remember.

If you can help me, please let me know. I need the car running again and not smoking. It is properly timed, properly torqued, and all lines are secure etc etc.

[nino4588]

Black smoke indicates the car is running rich - too much fuel, due to something like a faulty sensor of a problem with the fuel system. Blue smoke (actually a grey with a blue tinge to it) is typically oil, and indicates engine wear in the rings or valve guides/seals.

White smoke is, most often, due to water. This can be serious, such as a failed head gasket or crack in the head or block. Or it can be minor, such as water or condensation in the intake circuit or fuel.

Check the motor oil. If the oil on the dipstick is cloudy/milky, the problem is likely serious. Water in the oil will cause the oil to change from mostly clear to, well, imagine mixing salad oil with water or vinegar and giving it a good shake. The oil takes an underlying white cast.

If the oil is cloudy, have it changed and see if it stays clear. Any water in the oil can be from condensation if the car has been parked for a long while.

More likely, the problem is from water (probably again from condensation) in the petrol tank. This can happen due to damp weather and being parked for a prolonged time, of from purchasing fuel from off-brand dealers or low-volume dealers, or from petrol that's been stored for an extended time in a metal container like a jerry can.

Don't panic (in the famous words of the Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy). Not knowing how long it has been disused, if it appears to run well otherwise and doesn't exhibit signs of water in the motor oil, drive it through 2-3 petrol refills and see if it resolves itself.

Oh, and light grey smoke can indicate that the engine is running lean - that it hasn't enough fuel for a proper burn. This can cause the engine to run hot and to make pinging noises. Typically this is due to a blocked fuel filter (which is hard to change on the E36, so probably best done by a specialist shop), low fuel pressure from other causes, or dirty fuel injectors. If the smoke is more light grey than more or less pure white, try a good liquid fuel system cleaner. We use Chevron Techron (the concentrated "Plus" version, rather than the less expensive one), though there are other products.

If the smoke stops quickly after warm-up, the issue could be much more simple. You indicate the exhaust system may be about all in - if there is water or condensation making its way into the exhaust system (particularly the muffler, as it represents a large container), it could simply be the water steaming off as the exhaust system comes to operating temperature.

hope that can help

[airman1733]

The oil is milky, but I loosened the headbolts and re-torqued them when the oil was already contaminated- I do not know if it's still bad, I have to drain and replace it again.
The blue smoke, last time I started the car, seems to have gone away, but the car does not run correctly- when it warms up, the gas pedal has to be feathered to keep the car running. The car runs fine when it first starts it, but once it gets to operating temperature, it becomes hesitant and lacks any power, it winds up idling in and out until it dies.
I've been told to check the MAF but haven't yet, could that be the problem?
Also the ambient temperature sensor is missing from the car- the wires are currently spliced together(giving it a high reading) to offset the -37 degree celcius reading to allow the car to start at all.

[nino4588]

i would recommend to take a look at the distributor that's sound like you dont get enough power and as i know it can be the distributor going

hope you can fix soon good luck