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tomsolidgould · 10-06-2008, 04:40 PM

It never fails to happen , the busiest week for my wife and me and the Bimmer is having a major running problem.

Engine starts fine then dies immediately.

In park (auto) with with foot depressed engine surges and cuts out almost to point of dying in a consistant rhythmic way. same when driving.

No air leaks visable upon quick inspection.

Help

Tom

iluvmybeamer · 10-06-2008, 10:54 PM

Did you check your relays?

tomsolidgould · 10-06-2008, 11:07 PM

How do you check them ?

Tom

k-swiss · 10-06-2008, 11:10 PM

Replace with known good ones or swap them... Are you getting a CEL?

applecran · 10-06-2008, 11:39 PM

unplug your air sensor and see if that makes a difference, if you can, borrow one from another car to see if it helps.

Also, take some carb cleaner, and spray it all over the place while the car is idling, if the revs go up, you have a vacume leak.

Check the elbow thing on your air intake that connects to the throttle, that is a common place for air leaks, the things cracks.

tomsolidgould · 10-06-2008, 11:49 PM

no cel , motronic 1.1

redhatpat · 10-07-2008, 12:22 AM

I don't think a vacuum leak could be bad enough to stop it from running. It would just run poorly, and idle high.

Sounds like a faulty sensor or relay. The Bentley should have a good guide to check out these items.

kowalski · 10-07-2008, 01:40 AM

it would help if you gave us some more information...

what kind of motor is it?
have you had any maintenance done?
any new parts that we can rule out?

tomsolidgould · 10-07-2008, 08:16 AM

84 325e engine,

recent work: rebuilt steering rack, replaced coolant temp sensor, replaced rad ,new upper coolant hoses,

car has had a bogging problem ,worse in colder wettter weather, just after start up and when engine temp guage would reach end of blue zone. For 2-3 secs Then engine would run perfect. This problem feels like whatever was causing the bogging has finally after 4years gotten worse.

Tom

iluvmybeamer · 10-07-2008, 08:47 AM

After that more detailed explanation, it's probably not the relay.

kowalski · 10-07-2008, 09:28 AM

there is a block temp sensor, and a rad temp sensor... which one did u replace?

have you checked/cleaned your cold start valve?

do you have a multi meter??

tomsolidgould · 10-07-2008, 11:48 AM

Ok I'm a newbie at working at cars. So please forgive the lack of knowledge.

The coolant sensor that was replaced was done by my mechanic. He said it was the one that controlled the engine till the o2 sensor took over. This problem happened yesterday when the engine was fully warmed up and happens when cold. would the cold start valve still affect it when warm?

Checked the fuel relay today -no change.

Afm? flap seems free to move.

I might have the car towed wed. To nixon.

Tom

tomsolidgould · 10-07-2008, 11:49 AM

Oh yeah I do have a multi meter.

Tom

kowalski · 10-07-2008, 02:11 PM

the afm flap will move even if its broken, there is a contact strip in that little black box on top that can wear out, causing a lack of signal at certain positions of open/closed (the possition that your afm spends most of its time in)

you can check resistance of the afm with the multi meter (I'm not sure what it is supposed to be for your afm, but you should easily be able to find that information on r3v, or your bently)

while your doing this, you should also check the tps resistance, as it can also do the same thing.

check hot and cold ohm readings of your crank sensor.

have you replaced your spark plugs?

tomsolidgould · 10-07-2008, 08:34 PM

OK thanks will check those things. Tps is throttle position sensor?

Tom

10-06-2008, 04:40 PM	#1 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	BMW 325e engine barely running? Need Help! It never fails to happen , the busiest week for my wife and me and the Bimmer is having a major running problem. Engine starts fine then dies immediately. In park (auto) with with foot depressed engine surges and cuts out almost to point of dying in a consistant rhythmic way. same when driving. No air leaks visable upon quick inspection. Help Tom

10-06-2008, 10:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
iluvmybeamer Senior Member Name: Joni Joined: Jun 2007 From: So. Cal. Posts: 137 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 0 0 Times in 0 Posts	Did you check your relays? __________________ Joni Current Cars: 1970 VW Beetle 1987 Chevy K5 Blazer (with a 385 stroker) Hubby's truck 1989 BMW 325i (IT RUNS!!) 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser

10-07-2008, 08:47 AM	#10 (permalink)
iluvmybeamer Senior Member Name: Joni Joined: Jun 2007 From: So. Cal. Posts: 137 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 0 0 Times in 0 Posts	After that more detailed explanation, it's probably not the relay. __________________ Joni Current Cars: 1970 VW Beetle 1987 Chevy K5 Blazer (with a 385 stroker) Hubby's truck 1989 BMW 325i (IT RUNS!!) 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser

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10-06-2008, 11:07 PM	#3 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	How do you check them ? Tom

10-06-2008, 11:10 PM	#4 (permalink)
k-swiss Senior Member Name: Kirin Joined: May 2006 From: Kamloopizstan Posts: 1,594 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 0 5 Times in 4 Posts k-swiss's pictures '07 Volkswagen Rabbit '62 Volkswagen Beetle '89 BMW 325i	Replace with known good ones or swap them... Are you getting a CEL?

10-06-2008, 11:39 PM	#5 (permalink)
applecran Banned Name: Adam Joined: Mar 2008 From: North Vancouver Posts: 565 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 2 2 Times in 2 Posts	unplug your air sensor and see if that makes a difference, if you can, borrow one from another car to see if it helps. Also, take some carb cleaner, and spray it all over the place while the car is idling, if the revs go up, you have a vacume leak. Check the elbow thing on your air intake that connects to the throttle, that is a common place for air leaks, the things cracks.

10-06-2008, 11:49 PM	#6 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	no cel , motronic 1.1

10-07-2008, 12:22 AM	#7 (permalink)
redhatpat Senior Member Joined: Feb 2006 From: Pitt Meadows Posts: 866 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 2 1 Time in 1 Post	I don't think a vacuum leak could be bad enough to stop it from running. It would just run poorly, and idle high. Sounds like a faulty sensor or relay. The Bentley should have a good guide to check out these items.

10-07-2008, 01:40 AM	#8 (permalink)
kowalski Senior Member Name: Mike Joined: Feb 2005 From: White Rock Posts: 2,125 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 2 18 Times in 11 Posts kowalski's pictures	it would help if you gave us some more information... what kind of motor is it? have you had any maintenance done? any new parts that we can rule out?

10-07-2008, 08:16 AM	#9 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	84 325e engine, recent work: rebuilt steering rack, replaced coolant temp sensor, replaced rad ,new upper coolant hoses, car has had a bogging problem ,worse in colder wettter weather, just after start up and when engine temp guage would reach end of blue zone. For 2-3 secs Then engine would run perfect. This problem feels like whatever was causing the bogging has finally after 4years gotten worse. Tom

10-07-2008, 09:28 AM	#11 (permalink)
kowalski Senior Member Name: Mike Joined: Feb 2005 From: White Rock Posts: 2,125 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 2 18 Times in 11 Posts kowalski's pictures	there is a block temp sensor, and a rad temp sensor... which one did u replace? have you checked/cleaned your cold start valve? do you have a multi meter??

10-07-2008, 11:48 AM	#12 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	Ok I'm a newbie at working at cars. So please forgive the lack of knowledge. The coolant sensor that was replaced was done by my mechanic. He said it was the one that controlled the engine till the o2 sensor took over. This problem happened yesterday when the engine was fully warmed up and happens when cold. would the cold start valve still affect it when warm? Checked the fuel relay today -no change. Afm? flap seems free to move. I might have the car towed wed. To nixon. Tom

10-07-2008, 11:49 AM	#13 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	Oh yeah I do have a multi meter. Tom

10-07-2008, 02:11 PM	#14 (permalink)
kowalski Senior Member Name: Mike Joined: Feb 2005 From: White Rock Posts: 2,125 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 2 18 Times in 11 Posts kowalski's pictures	the afm flap will move even if its broken, there is a contact strip in that little black box on top that can wear out, causing a lack of signal at certain positions of open/closed (the possition that your afm spends most of its time in) you can check resistance of the afm with the multi meter (I'm not sure what it is supposed to be for your afm, but you should easily be able to find that information on r3v, or your bently) while your doing this, you should also check the tps resistance, as it can also do the same thing. check hot and cold ohm readings of your crank sensor. have you replaced your spark plugs?

10-07-2008, 08:34 PM	#15 (permalink)
tomsolidgould Member Name: Thomas Joined: May 2008 From: East Vancouver Posts: 91 iTrader: 0 Thanks: 10 3 Times in 3 Posts	OK thanks will check those things. Tps is throttle position sensor? Tom

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BMW 325e engine barely running? Need Help!