BMW 325e engine barely running? Need Help!

[iluvmybeamer]

If it's your fuel relay, the check engine light will appear when the key in the on position.

[tomsolidgould]

Oh yeah plugs could probably use replacement. But drove to whiterock the other night and no problem. No roughness. suddenly after stopping for groceries the other day immediate problem. Could that really be the plugs?
It will not hold idle for one second.

Tom

[kowalski]

change them.

Originally Posted by tomsolidgould OK thanks will check those things. Tps is throttle position sensor? Tom

correct, tps is throttle pos. sensor.

[M635]

Check your fuel pump!

I had the same problem a week ago, and I did everything I could (relays, spark coil, spark plug wires, AFM, and so much more and it did NOTHING!) Your whole fuel pump may not be shot at all. I was fortunate it wasnt's, it turned out to be a stupid plastic hose that kept slipping. I removed it, and replaced it with a fuel line hose, with proper clamps, and it's working fine now!

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. If I were you I'd check this out, and either replace it with a new one, or swap it with a hose. As a matter of fact I found this picture on a the E46fantic forum, and these guys were swapping a E46 M3 motor in their E30, and while they were replacing everything, they swapped that piece of plastic with a hose. And is working fine with them as well!



Hope this helps as much it has helped me!

[tomsolidgould]

To recap- The car is 1984 325e
Problem ...Car will not start unless pedal pressed.car will not idle it dies after pedal released.When gas pedal held down engine revs up and down in a predictable rhythmic fashion with about 1500rpm difference between max and min revs

OK finally had time today to check stuff out with a good running very handy 325e donor car to swap parts in to check their function.


this is what was checked: Afm
Tps checked and adjusted
Idle solinoid
cap and rotor -terminals cleaned
visible wiring and hoses checked
vacuum at intake reading taken =18=OK

Still no fix to the problem.

Next things to check : Fuel pump, two remaining coolant sensors( one already changed)


Any other suggestions?

Thanks one and all
Tom

[kowalski]

don't forget the crank sensor

[DS Rook]

Both the bellhousing sensors. Crank and speed

[tomsolidgould]

Fuel pump in tank is dead.

Anyone have a good one for sale? BJessel wants 4bills and Lordco wants high 300's

thanks

Tom

[fastbmw]

Try BMV in richmond www.bmvautoparts.com, I think we got one for my brother's touring for around $200.

[DS Rook]

Car should still run with the intank pump dead, unless it is plugged up. This pump is just the transfer pump, and the pump outside creates the pressure. My intank pump went dead and my car would still run fine all the way to about 5500rpm where it would start to surge/lean out. You may have another problem or just crap in your tank.

Originally Posted by tomsolidgould Fuel pump in tank is dead. Anyone have a good one for sale? BJessel wants 4bills and Lordco wants high 300's thanks Tom

If you can wait a few week, RMeuropean Has them for 125.00 or so.

[tomsolidgould]

OK ...
Just posting an update for all the people who have given me useful info in helping track down the problem or anyone interested.

My mechanic friend and I have been at this for a while now. It looked at one point to be the ECU Ben V helped out with a spare but no such luck.

Now it seems like it could be the top dead center crank sensor connector and/or the speed sensor connector. Both were cracked and broken where they connect to the harness. Once again Ben V came to the rescue with the sensors and wiring. We'll see what happens maybe tomorrow or Sat.

Thanks

Tom

[redhatpat]

Yeah, thanks for keeping this thread up to date. I'm following it since it's good to know what can go wrong and how to fix these problems.

[Al Canuck]

Doubtful its the reference or speed sensors. Even with cracked connectors, they seldom fail intermittently. They're kind a go/no go thing.

I haven't reread the entire thread, but it sounds like perhaps a main relay problem or a vacuum leak. Tough to diagnose over the intrawebz though.

Al

[tomsolidgould]

New info: Speed sensor and TDC sensors replaced still same problem They needed replacing anyway.
Tested the Idle control unit,the one beside the ECU above the glove box and it looks like it needs replacing. Anyone have one of these for an 84/85 325E?

Thanks

Tom

OK new update.

Just installed another idle control unit. ENGINE STILL HARD TO START AND WON"T HOLD IDLE!!!! However, we did get it running. Here's the weird stuff. 1) Engine works fine when a test light makes contact with the speed sensor at the plug connector to the harness on the black wire (there are 3 wires) and one of the lights aligator clips is connected to the car body. Engine only works if this test light is used and not just a wire.The cars resistance across the speed sensor's wiring test right on spec.2) If the engine is running and we remove the electrical connector to the idle stabilizer solenoid car still runs, albeit rough. I thought this should not happen .
3)Lastly, if the aligator clip from the test light is removed and replaced quickly the engine idle will drop and stay at the loweered RPM.
AAAARRRRRGGGHHH!

Any suggestions would be appreciated. If car is not running by this weekend I'll have to break down and send it to a shop.

Thanks

Tom Gould

[scooter]

Hi Tom,

I am no pro at this stuff but I don't think you are dealing with a vacum leak here. It sounds more like you have an electrical short somewhere due to not getting a proper ground connection. If it is worth anything I would recheck the ground connectors and make sure they are all getting a good ground connection, starting with tracing back the black wire in the speed sensors plug connector. Hopefully someone else on the board will pipe up with a better suggestion but that is were I would start. From reading this thread, youve sure had your hands full nailing down this gremlin. Hope this is of some help.